![]() ![]() Keep in mind that we’re also talking about the fairly minor recoil of. The slow-mo footage for each device in the following video does show some noticeable differences in up/down muzzle movement as well as flash, but this test was specifically designed for measuring recoil - rearward energy. ![]() ![]() For most brakes and comps, felt recoil reduction is only one goal anyway, with the other primary benefit being the reduction of muzzle movement in any other direction. dedicated flash hiders or a linear compensators). Some balance recoil management with flash hiding, and some have no recoil reduction consideration whatsoever (e.g. As a Patron you can also get free stuff, join live streams, gain early access, and more.įirst, a quick note: not all of these muzzle devices are brakes/comps, or were otherwise designed to mitigate recoil. Please consider supporting this sort of testing via my Patreon page. I also want to do another AR-15 trigger roundup (component triggers this time) and a couple of flashlight roundups (tactical and gun-mounted). But I have a lot of brakes to round up for that and the funding is low. I’ve purchased air pressure sensors designed to log blast waves so we can compare the amount of concussion each muzzle device generates, and these will be used in test four. These tests are expensive, but I’d love to do more. You may also be interested in the AR-15 Drop-In Trigger Roundup HERE. The second 5.56 muzzle brake test is HERE, the third is HERE, the first 5.56 flash hiding test HERE, the second 5.56 flash hiding test HERE, and the first. If you are interested in Mr Jan Gear Floating hide II, please have a look at the following link:įeel free to contact me if you have any questions about the floating hide.EDIT: This is the first test I did, but it hasn’t been the last. On that particular day, I only caught a mallard and goosanders – which I do not see so often, and it was a pleasant surprise that morning. It was easy to handle, and I managed to go close to the birds in the water. I have tried the hide only once, and I have to say that it worked very well for a first try. The tubes are made of sturdy nylon material with an insert, so basically you have a protective layer outside. Well, it is always a risk to take your camera equipment close to the water, but in terms of the material, it seems reliable and durable. There are lugs on the outside of the hide for attaching branches to give some more camouflage. The “windows” can easily be fixed from the inside with magnetic patches. „Īs you can see from the details of the hide, it is made by photographers for photographers. “ It is made by photographers for photographers. I usually mount a separate box to the camera base, to take additional equipment and my car keys, and to protect them from splashing water. ![]() Lastly, put the tent-poles in place and fix the cover with straps to the hide. Afterwards, fill the tubes until they secure the camera base properly, and the entire set up feels stable. Then inflate the tubes using a mechanical or electrical pump but ensure that the tubes are not full and secure the tubes according to the markings. Once the base is complete, secure the inflatable tubes using the straps to the camera base. If you have the camera base put together already, it only takes a few minutes to build everything up and go swimming. Which I would not be able to do with my self-built hides. If I were to take the floating hide on a flight – I would dismantle the camera base and pack everything in my suitcase. If I were to travel by car, I would leave the camera base mounted, as it saves time to put everything together in the early morning hours. MrJanGear Floating Hide II side by side with my Nikon 600/4 and D500.įrom experience, I would recommend building up the camera base first, which takes the most time. I was surprised by how the entire floating hide was delivered in a tiny green bag of about 5.3 kilograms. I then I decided to look for a lightweight, versatile hide and found Mr Jan Gear Floating Hide II. Especially if one had to walk a long distance to the water, and additionally carry photo equipment. The materials used to build the floating hides made them heavy and not very practical to move around. To photograph in deep water, I also acquired a diving suit that was useful for swimming in these waters.īoth floating hides were made out of ordinary materials that are available at any hardware store. The second was smaller, and I only used this hide in deep water. The first hide was for shallow waters of a few centimetres or water levels up to my chest. When it comes to this specific kind of nature photography, you will not find many suppliers of swimming hides, especially not ten years ago. I have spent more than ten years with my self-built floating hides on different kinds of waters photographing mainly birds. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |